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When Karl Lagerfeld closed Chanel’s Fall Winter 1991 ready to wear show with a ballgown, he did not send it out with pearls and satin pumps. He cinched it with an oversized gold CHANEL gladiator belt, layered it in chains, threw on a black leather biker jacket, and grounded it with motorcycle boots. The message was clear. Chanel was stepping into a new era.
Crafted in luminous silk taffeta and punctuated with signature gold rimmed buttons, this gown is one of the defining pieces of early 90s Chanel. It captures Lagerfeld’s vision at a pivotal moment, when he pulled the house’s most classical codes into a world shaped by hip hop influence, street attitude, and unapologetic glamour. The collection thrived on contrast. Grand ball skirts with leather. Couture references styled with edge. It challenged the idea of what elegance was supposed to be.
The gown appears in the official campaign on Linda Evangelista, on Claudia Schiffer in Vogue’s “Wild at Heart” editorial photographed by Peter Lindbergh, and on Yasmeen Ghauri in Vogue Italia. Decades later, it was rightfully included in The Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition Karl Lagerfeld A Line of Beauty. It is widely considered one of the most collectible Chanel gowns of the decade. In 2024, it was recreated in lilac for Angèle at the Met Gala, proving its lasting cultural relevance.
There are only two rare colorways known, pink and baby blue. Very few remain in private hands, and it is exceptionally rare to see one offered publicly.
Accessories shown, including the belt and choker, are not included and are styled for reference only. They may be available separately upon request.
Credit
Chanel Fall Winter 1991 ad catalogue, model Linda Evangelista
Wild at Heart by Peter Lindbergh, VOGUE US 1991, model Claudia Schiffer
Vogue Italy, model Yasmeen Ghauri, “Chic Rider” by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1991
Angele, Met Gala 2024
Elaine Irwin attends the Bergdorf Goodman and Chanel “Off the Street” runway show. Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images
Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty exhibition 2023, The MET
Size
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