Christian Dior by John Galliano, Fall/Winter 1998 Ready-to-Wear

One of my favorite things about collecting Galliano is seeing how an idea travels from Haute Couture into ready-to-wear.

Fall 1998 RTW came directly after Galliano’s extraordinary Spring 1998 Haute Couture collection inspired by Marchesa Luisa Casati, and to me this dress feels like a continuation of the same world, translated into RTW.

The decadent metallic floral fabric, long sensual silhouette, completely open back and especially the tiny antique-looking gold and silver beads used instead of traditional straps all carry that same feeling of faded aristocratic opulence. It almost feels like a ready-to-wear sister to one of those incredible Casati gowns.

But this time Galliano brought the fantasy into 1998. The collection played with the idea of “sportswear on heels” — mixing luxurious evening clothes with pieces borrowed from a much more casual wardrobe. On the runway, gowns were styled with doudounes, or puffer jackets, creating this wonderfully strange contrast between decadence and everyday practicality.

Galliano told WWD, “I like the idea of wearing the doudoune with an evening dress. There are no boundaries, no frontiers. This doudoune represents a nonchalant attitude that's right for Dior today.”

And that is exactly what makes this period of Dior so fascinating to me. Galliano could take the decadence and historical fantasy of Haute Couture and bring it into RTW without losing any of the magic. Casati was still there, but now she was wearing a puffer over her evening gown.

Credit:

LA Models Courtney Cross, left, and Lorna Firman talk at the Christian Dior boutique opening Thursday at South Coast Plaza. (Photo by Al Schaben/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)

Christian Dior by John Galliano F/W 1998 runway